After a traditional Pamir breakfast, sirchai (yak milk and tea) with bread and butter, we jumped in the saddle and set course for Khorog, the last city before we'd enter the high plateau.
When Afghanistan came too close for comfort, Anton jumped out of his comfort zone and his clothes and dove into the river. The Icy water instantly froze his brains solid and the malfunctioning of his control chamber made him swim to the other side. Not knowing what he was doing there at the Afghan side, he stood there and looked at his friends. "I'm too cold to swim back" he shouted. "You'll be fine man the current will take you right back here." They responded, and still unable to judge for himself, the illegal immigrant listened and swam back, supported by the quick stream of water.
We arrived in Khorog early and treated ourselves to a beer, setting us back a complete day budget of 10 dollars. Because we gave ourselves the challenge to cycle 1000 km without a map we had some trouble locating the Pamir Lodge, but eventually discovered at the top of the hill. It didn't live up to our expectations though, as it had no kitchen. The shower however did have excellent electrocution possibilities, as it poured water straight in a power outlet and the light bulb above the shower head was also placed very thoughtfully.
The next day we rested, and Anton stayed in bed to sweat out a nasty stomach bug. We prepared our bikes by tightening all screws for the rough roads ahead. In the evening we found an Indian restaurant to ease the rumbling stomachs, and Yuri was happy this time Anton was fighting a virus and he could enjoy the meal, in contrast to the previous Indian episode in Dushanbe.
Suddenly Rodrigo, the Spanish hitch hiker/overlander we met in Tehran surprised us and joined our table. Apparently he had to go around Turkmenistan and just arrived from the pamir from the other way, together with some friends.
We joined them after dinner and the group invited us for some drinks in their hotel room, where we played cards against humanity. Things escalated quickly and soon Exploding Kittens (another inhumane cardgame) started popping up. Before it spun out of control we called it a night and said goodbye after a last round of drinks.