Fully rested after a good night's sleep in the first real bed in weeks, we reanged our bags and tossed some unnecessary weight. We blogged until the rainshowers were gone in this comfy habitat and afterwards made our way into the first hills. We felt like cycling throug J.R. Tolkien's shire, through a scenery of hills beautiful and green as they can be in this time of the year. When darkness fell, the sky started to weep on our heads once more and we called it a day at a roadside gas station, where the operators showed us the backroom floorbeds that could fit four soaking wet cyclers. We happily accepted their generous offer, and scented that this is our first invitation that wouldn't cost us some Som. The guys seemed genuinly friendly and pitied us for the skyshower we received. In other cases, locals might ask a small fee in exchange for the offer of a roof and a bed. Quite some people in Turkmenistan and Uzbekistan are poor and expect a compensation of whatever size, while other people offer hospitality without expecting anything in return. This might feel weird, but when one thinks about it is quite understandable. On the other hand, in Iran this would be a crime against the famous Persian hospitality. Other countries, other habits, we suppose?