Let us lift the veil on some ground rules we try to maintain. First of all the daily food budget is 30 euros for the four of us. Secondly, nothing is to be wasted, which already caused us a lot of problems when people kept refillling drinks and plates after they invite us in. Exceptions are extremely rare and leftovers become roadside snacks. Always. Thirdly, never say no to anything offered , unless offered out of mere politeness. Also, we try to maintain a daily minimum distance covered of 50 clicks, whatever the terrain we come across. Of course, rule number three transcends this rule in hierarchy and can create exceptions when free accomodation is offered; Croatian people prevented us from reaching our daily minimum quite more often than we expected. Lastly, we have strict requirements for our camping spot. Our resting place should at all times be hidden from unwanted guests and must, of course, have trees. If we don’t find any good ‘hanging spots’ within 10 km after the start of our search, we will settle for flat ground and sleep on our dreaded airbeds. Possible bonusses are: a nice view, a river, private beach, babes in bikinis,…
Clearly, sleeping in cities, going to restaurants and paying to see things is against our principles, so staying in Dubrovnik was not really an option even though we had a challenge yet to complete. This arduous task seemed really fun, since the three of us could throw shit at Yuri without causing offence, but it truly was a tough one, considering the consequences, worst case being jailtime. Also, locals warned us that the elders would take it as great disrespect to their city and culture, elders being what they are. I hope you understand we will, with pleasure, atone Yuri for his sins elsewhere. No challenges should be left uncompleted, rule number 6.
We were quickly pulled out of our ‘post-vacation hangover’ when we found out the newspaper in our homeland was curious about our progress. We could not afford to slack any more and we didn’t want to either, so we set to it. After a massive downpour, we reached undiscovered terrain; Montegro was ready to be explored.
When we got to the border crossing, the booth officer on duty asked to see our insurance papers for our bikes. We gave him confused looks in return and he was quick to suggest a cheap 20 euro per person Insurance on the spot to get in. When we stepped aside and started pulling out our papers, he laughed and signaled us to move through. Whether this was a bad joke or an attempt to steal our lunch money, he let us pass, which is the most important part. We answered his laugh with a deep sigh as we started repacking our panniers. As it was pitch black we had some difficulties finding a spot to our likings, so we settled for the bare minimum: flat ground.
Too tired to cook, we had eaten our breakfast for dinner, so the next morning, we had dinner for breakfast. The good ol’ switcheroo! We liked it so much we’ve been keeping this ritual going since. With the power of a warm meal, we were even more eager to cover distance, so for once we skipped the scenic route along Boka Kotorska and took the ferry, as this was cheaper than one more day of food expenses. Passing the city of Budva, we enjoyed cycling through the countryside and even saw some random animals blending into traffic. Two donkeys going in the opposite way gave us strange looks, they didn’t care about their pet human who was nowhere to be seen. After a long search we found a camping spot near an abandoned police station. Here we saw two cows with the same sense of purpose we saw in the donkeys’ eyes earlier. During our breakfast for dinner two turtles casually came out of the bush and for privacy reasons, we will not explain the show they put up for us. We suspected Noah’s Arc couldn’t be very far, but as we were hungry, we didn’t bother looking for it. We don’t care about boats, we like bicycles.